Also known as Mij Mkongwe, which is Swahili for ‘Old Town’, Stone Town is the oldest part of Zanzibar City. Stone Town, Zanzibar is a unique and enchanting travel destination, a place full of mystery and allure and yet it comes with both a dark past and enthralling history. Shangani, the original fishing town that developed into Stone Town, was a small, largely unimportant Swahili site founded in the 11th century. It was especially renowned for the commerce of spices (mostly cloves) and slaves.
It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site which has enabled some of the beautiful houses to get a much-needed renovation. It’s right on the Indian Ocean and faces Tanzania’s mainland and commercial capital, Dar es Salaam. Zanzibar’s Stone Town is a fascinating living monument to the history of East Africa, and an extraordinary place to explore.
It’s unique winding, narrow streets are adorned with (some crumbling) beautiful buildings. Established by Arab slave and spice traders in the early 19th century, Stone Town is the cultural heart of Zanzibar. Though first settled by the Portuguese in the 16th century, most of Stone Town’s construction dates to the 19th and (to a lesser extent) 18th centuries – a mesmerising mix of Arabic, Persian, Indian and British architecture – and Victorian era accounts of the quarter carry an authentic feeling to this today. Twisting passages unfurl beneath delicate balconies as you dodge clattering coffee carts and slip by past ornately carved doors. Stone Town was first nominated as a world heritage site in 1982, but this nomination was rejected outright. By 2000, when a new nomination was submitted, the Committee clearly had second thoughts.
The Stone Town was host to one of the world’s last open slave markets, presided over by Arab traders until it was shut down by the British in 1873. The slaves were shipped here in dhows from the mainland, crammed so tightly that many fell ill and died or were thrown overboard.
Below St Monica’s guesthouse, dozens of slaves, and women and children, were imprisoned for days in crowded cellars with little air and no food or toilets. Even after two minutes down there, under the low roof, the atmosphere seemed poisonously oppressive. The slaves were led outside and lined up in order of size. They were tied to a tree and whipped with a stinging branch to test their mettle. Those who did not cry or faint fetched a higher price at market. Africa has its share of cruelty and suffering, but such stories bite our conscience as if for the first time.
What now stands on the site? The Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ. The former whipping tree is marked at the altar by a white marble circle surrounded by red to symbolize the blood of the slaves.
Legend has it that former slaves in need of work were employed in the cathedral’s construction, and made one mistake. The supervisor, Bishop Edward Steere, was called away on business and returned to find 12 pillars had been erected upside down. He decided to leave them, and so they remain.
Steere, a popular figure who in 1885 wrote A Handbook of the Swahili Language: As Spoken at Zanzibar, eventually died of a heart attack in a nearby building. He is buried behind the altar.
There is also a tribute to Dr David Livingstone, who stayed in Zanzibar before his final expedition. Some wood from the tree in Zambia under which his heart was buried has been fashioned into a cross that hangs in the cathedral. Again, history has imbued a place – a tree – with quasi-religious significance.
Today, Stone Town, is a touristic hub, where many tourists who would wish to taste culture in-depth go to indulge themselves and have a lot of fun. There is a lot to see and down, when you visit the town coast of Stone Town, as the town is very organic and authentic as back in the days, from food to beaches.
Spending time there is somehow like stepping back in time – a place where faded colonial buildings rub shoulders with vibrant, bustling markets, where donkeys navigate tiny narrow streets as children, dashing home from school in traditional dress, weave in and out of them, where ancient carved doorways sit slightly ajar, their secrets just out of reach…
If you’re visiting during Ramadan be aware that many restaurants close, and the usual daytime buzz on the streets is somewhat subdued. Some hotels also close down during the March to May low season although still others offer discounted rates to encourage visitors
What to do in Stone Town.
Have a Sunset Cocktail At Emerson Spice House
After a long day walk and strolling around the town, trying to understand the culture here, its time now to have a relaxed mind, as you grab a cocktail, and watch the sun goes down, staring at the beautiful clouds. Not only is the setting and sunset incredible, but the cocktails are delicious, too. Make a reservation and enjoy an amazing Zanzibar sunset from the rooftop of the Emerson Spice House at the Tea House.
Visit Forodhani Gardens
Do you want to go and eat like a local, let’s go for a bite here in the evening after long day stroll around. Set right on the seafront, you can pick up a beautiful breeze here as tens of late night food alfresco stalls serve up a delicious selection of local Zanzibar cuisine. A wonderful food market takes place in the garden itself every night, so be sure to stop by after dark and spend a charmed evening sampling Swahili and Zanzibari cuisine. From the famous Zanzibar pizza to meat kebabs, local fish, coconut bread, grilled cassava, roasted corn, chunky sweet potato, garlic chapatti and amazing fresh fruit selections, you can eat your heart out for a few dollars here amidst a great atmosphere. There are several stalls to choose from, so be sure to walk around the whole market and look around before you commit anywhere.
The Arab Fort (Ngome Kongwe)
Found on the coast of the Indian Ocean, this small park sits right across the street from some of Stone Town’s most famous buildings: the Arab Fort, the House of Wonders, and the Palace Museum. Sadly, the latter two structures have fallen into a state of total disrepair, but the 19th century architectural details that remain still make these striking ruins worth a visit.
Visit Prison (Changuu) Island
If you can get past the odd combination of pleasure and shades of despair, this popular trip could make for an interesting morning. After a 30-minute boat ride, you’ll be led through a park where you can get up close to a colony of rare Aldabra giant tortoises (thought to have been brought to Zanzibar from the Seychelles), the grounds of what used to be a place of punishment for unruly slaves and quarantine for yellow fever patients, and the surrounding reefs for a snorkeling adventure. Also keep in mind that most, if not all, the group tours to Prison Island depart around 9am.
Go On A Spice Tour
Want to know where all the incredible flavours of Zanzibar’s scrumptious cuisine comes from? Well, take a spice tour to discover the spices of this island’s flavorsome food. The tour includes learning about the how they are grown at plantations, visiting a famous herbalist and interacting with local spice farm workers. The famous spice plantations are as much of a tourist trap as the dhow cruises, but they’re fascinating and educational for foodies, chefs and anyone who loves to cook. Influenced by the Arabs, Indians and Persians, the Zanzibar archipelago is called the “Spice Islands” for a reason. Spice plantations can be found everywhere. Have you ever wondered what some of your favourite spices look like in their natural form or how they’re harvested? You’ll find out on one of these tours. Cloves are king in Zanzibar, followed by cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper. Most surprising is the nutmeg, which looks like a Christmas tree ornament encased in a shell.
Snorkel at Chumbe Island
This is the top snorkeling destination in Zanzibar and, some would argue, all of East Africa. The reef sanctuary at Chumbe Island is a famous private nature reserve with 200 species of both coral and fish, a giant underwater garden so pristine and well-protected that diving is not allowed and a permit is required to snorkel. Researchers from every corner of the world travel to the island to study the delicate ecosystem. The diversity, colours and size of the tropical fish are spectacular. Head out straight from the white beach into the crystal clear waters of this amazing snorkeling area.
Visit the House of Wonders
Unofficially known as the House of Wonders, Stone Town’s National Museum is located right on the seafront. Built in 1883 by Sultan Barghash as a ceremonial palace, this landmark structure includes a clock tower, large steel columns and some of the largest carved doors in Zanzibar.
This is flagship building reflects the efforts being made to restore the city after it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is well worth a visit.
Experience a sunset dhow cruise
Dhows, traditional wooden sailing vessels, were used by Arab traders over centuries as they travelled across the Indian Ocean to the Swahili Coast in East Africa. They can be small, one-man fishing boats with makeshift sails, or larger, two-level boats for foreigners. It’s a tourist trap, sure, but I can’t think of a better way to take in the Zanzibar sunset than on one of these timeless boats under a white sail. You’ll get to see some of Stone Town’s amazing attractions including Africa House, Serena Inn Hotel, Beit El Jaib, The Old Fort, House of Wonders, Forodhani Gardens, and The Palace Museum from a different angle.
Visit the Palace Museum
This huge white palace was also erected in 1883, right next to the House of Wonders, but in Omani style. For 5,000 TSh, you can take a peek into the extravagant, domestic life of the sultanate.
The artifacts, photos and opulent furniture are interesting, but the room devoted to Princess Salme, daughter of Seyyid Said who fled Zanzibar after falling in love with and marrying a German merchant, is especially intriguing.
Visit the Old Dispensary
Facing the clove harbour is the Ithnasheri Dispensary which is one of the most important buildings in Stone Town. The dispensary was built by a wealthy Ismaili Indian merchant, Tharia Topan who was one of Zanzibar’s richest men, as a charitable hospital for the poor. It is probably the most decorative of the all the old buildings with ornate carved balconies, stucco work and stained glass windows. Commissioned by an affluent Indian, this building of ornate balconies and stained glass windows dates back to 1894 when it served as a charitable hospitable for the poor. Inside, you’ll find a shop and travel agency on the ground floor.
Visit St. Joseph Cathedral
Built by French missionaries in 1898, this cathedral in Baghani still holds regular service for Stone Town’s Catholic community. In fact, it was designed by the same French architect who designed the Notre Dame Basilica in Marseilles, France. Be warned: although the tall twin spires are a defining feature of both the cathedral and the Stone Town skyline, the building can still be difficult to find
Explore Darajani Market
Located near the Slave Market, this bazaar frequented by mostly locals is a riot of noise and colour, with everything from pans and traditional kangas to raw meat and local produce from all over the island. Head to the centre of Creek Road where you’ll find the fruit, fish and meat markets that is definitely worth the visit. You’ll find exotic fruits and vegetables, freshly caught fish and slaughter meat all at these markets. The market is located close Dala-Dala Terminus in Stone Town.
Mingle with the Locals
Take a walk and get lost. Stone Town is a beautiful town with amazing decorative doors that open up to old houses. The little roads are lined with locals that you can interact with and are great for photo opportunities.
Slave Museum
Tippi Tip’s legacy of colonialism and slavery leads you to your next stop, the Slave Museum. Here you descend in our shadowy past, into the dark, cramped cells where African slaves were held for days before auction. No fewer than 50,000 slaves passed through this port annually, until it was abolished by the British in 1873. Heavy stuff, but necessary.
Where To Stay
The best hotels in Stone Town are those that have renovated traditional Swahili style homes into small, intimate hotels. However, other mid – range and luxury market lodges and hotels are in place, and those that nearer to the beaches are more expensive.
Getting to Stone Town
There are several daily high-speed ferries from the port of Dar es Salaam to Stone Town. The trip takes about an hour and a half and tickets can be bought on the spot from the ticket office (or touts) for US Dollars. You need your passport as authorities will ask to check it.
Several regional airlines will also get you to Zanzibar (the airport is just 3 miles (5km) from Stone Town).
Some General Tips:
Always haggle and negotiate when buying anything in the market. Never accept the first price given to you. As well for transport, you can still bargain. Its fun her as you try to come to a set price, worth the service or product.
Cash is king. As with most African cities, always carry cash (in local currency), however USD and Euro are also widely accepted. Some places do not have credit card machines, and your eyes will catch something worth purchase.
Languages spoken are mostly English and Swahili, though most tour guides and operators speak a wider range of other languages, as the town is a mixture of number of races.
For women, keep your shoulders and legs covered. Since this is a predominantly Muslim country, cultural norms and practices should be observed so as not to not draw unwanted attention to yourself, so definitely be careful in your outfit choices.
Be careful where you get your henna applied. In the bustling markets, vendors may try to cut costs by switching up the mixture so always do a small test patch first to check for an allergic reaction. I believe the red henna is of higher quality here, but always assess your surroundings and the actual henna before you get painted.