Mountaineering on Mount Kenya
Mountaineering on Mount Kenya is an exciting tourist activity. Africa’s second-highest the mountain might just be its most beautiful. Here, mere minutes from the equator, glaciers carve out the throne of Ngai, the old high god of the Kikuyu. To this day the tribe keeps its doors open to the face of the sacred mountain, and some still come to its lower slopes to offer prayers. Besides being venerated by the Kikuyu, Mt Kenya and Mount Kenya National Park has the rare honor of being both a Unesco World Heritage Site and a Unesco Biosphere Reserve.
Most of the peaks on Mount Kenya have been summited. The majority of these involve rock climbing as the easiest route, although some only require a scramble or a walk. The highest peak that can be ascended without climbing is Point Lenana, 4,985 meters (16,355 ft). The majority of the 15,000 visitors to the national park each year climb this peak. In contrast, approximately 200 people summit Nelion and 50 summits Batian, the two highest peaks.
Mount Kenya’s climbing seasons are unique as a result of its location only 10 miles from the equator. During the northern summer, the rock routes on the north side of the peak are in good summer condition, while at the same time the ice routes on the south side of the peak are prime shape. The situation is reversed during the southern summer. The two seasons are separated by several months of the rainy season before and after, during which climbing conditions are generally unfavorable.
The highest peaks of Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5188m) can only be reached by mountaineers with technical skills, but Point Lenana (4985m), the third-highest peak, can be reached by trekkers and is the usual goal for most mortals. When the clouds part, the views are simply magnificent.
Technical Summits – Batian & Nelion
Point Lenana is the third-highest point on Mt Kenya after the technical peaks of Nelion and Batian. These peaks are part of the same large body of rock and are separated by a large notch called the gate of the Mists. There are two main ‘standard’ routes to the technical summits. As the peak is essentially on the equator, the sun is on the North faces during UK summer and South faces during the UK winter, though note that on the equator there isn’t really a summer and winter, only really dry and wet seasons. You, therefore, climb the routes that are in the sun so that they are freer from ice and your hands and feet don’t go numb from being in the shade hanging off the ice-cold rock! Therefore broadly speaking, you would go via the North face to Batian in the UK summer and via the south side during the UK winter. The standard south route is the southeast face of Nelion, this requires crossing Nelion (and the gate of the mists) to get to Batian.
For Mount Kenya is a tougher but more rewarding experience than Kilimanjaro. It’s far quieter on Mount Kenya and it’s great that you can see wildlife on the lower slopes, something that is distinctly absent on Mount Kilimanjaro. Climbing Mount Kenya is far less technically challenging than a trek up Mount Kilimanjaro, but mountaineering experience is recommended if you’re to reach the summit safely.
Usually done in 3-5 days depending on the availability that you have and your physical condition. The guidelines recommend acclimatization day to avoid altitude sickness, especially if you’re not accustomed to such routes.
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