150 km south of Zanzibar Island lies the third largest isle in the archipelago, Mafia. In fact, Mafia Island is so far removed and has so many smaller satellites of its own, that it’s really a miniature archipelago in its own right. Rarely visited, and much quieter even than Pemba, Mafia and its surrounding islands are a diver’s paradise. Huge groupers, rays, turtles and whale sharks all frequent its warm, clear waters and Chole Bay is perhaps the best coral garden in East Africa. Accommodation around Mafia tends to be intimate and upmarket, and for the ultimate in exclusivity, stunning private island lodges are also available.
There are two possible ways to get to Mafia Island. Thus by air and water
By air
The easiest way to get to Mafia Island is on a plane
To reach mafia one no longer sails, but must fly in light aircraft from Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar, or one of the game parks such as the Selous. The experience is fantastic, with great views of the African bush and coastline.
By Ferry
Budget travelers can also opt to travel to Mafia by ferry. Boats depart daily from the village of Nyamisati on the mainland to Kilindoni on Mafia Island. As of 2019 the departure from Nyamisati is 5 a.m. with a roll call between 3-4a.m. The journey takes about 4.5h. Tickets are purchased beforehand in Nyamisati at a cost of 16000 Tsh one way (around US$7).
Once you get to Mafia Island, you can explore the island on local shared taxis known as dalla-dallas. These connect Kilindoni (where the airport and the port are located) with both Utende and Bweni. The trip to Utende takes 30 minutes and while the trip to Bweni takes between four and five hours. You can also get around by tuk-tuk or rental bicycle. Most resorts include transfers from Kilindoni, and hotels and dive centers in Utende are usually able to arrange boat trips to Chole and Juani islands.